Weaving a Spell Over You

Few people know of the isolated Himalayan country of Bhutan. Still fewer know that among its many hidden treasures is a magical mosiac of rich vibrant hues and patterns. In myriad weaves. Weaves that have today become vivid symbols of the Dragon Kingdom. Discover this timeless tradition on the Weaver’s Trail. An 11 day trip through the weaves of Bhutan. With Bhutan Holidays Ltd., your host to a wonderous country.

Weaving : More than a tradition, a Passion

The art of weaving is held in high esteem in Bhutan. And it is surprisingly prevalent. Many women, especially in central and eastern Bhutan, weave at home. They do not belong to any particular social group or corporation, but are simple village women who use their spare time to weave clothes for their family. And sell what is left over.

The economic benefits of weaving, however, cannot fully indicates its social significance. The recognition and prestige that goes with being acknowledged as a good weaver is immense. And in Bhutan, there are many women who have earned the honour. So intrinsic is weaving to the culture and tradition of Bhutan, that it is a favourite topic of discussion. People constantly compare notes and judge the quality of weaving. The tightness of the ground weave. The delicacy of the supplementary weft or warp patterns. The ingenuity of motifs, colours and combinations. Each of these is discussed and commented upon at length.

Weaves that capture the imagination

Bhutanese weavers use cotton, silk or wool to create intricate patterns. But the fabrics they are best known for are Brocade Patterning and the Floating Warp technique. In the former, designs are woven in the ground with either the supplementary weft or the supplementary warp technique. The foloting warp technique creates beautiful patterns on the front of the fabric. But such is the skill involved that the reverse bears no evidence of this.

Weaving in Bhutan : Unique dimensions

Weaving has special social significance in Bhutan.. Apart from weaving for home consumption and supplementing income, fabrics are also woven to be given as gifts. On occasions like promotions and marrages, they are presented in a set of prescribed odd numbers. These may be 3,5,7 or 9, according to the rank of the recipient. What’s more, reselling a dress (Kira) is fairly common. Whenever a person doesn’t like her Kira any more or needs to raise money, a sale may take place. Fabrics are considered assets which can be traded in the same way as gold, land, or staocks and bonds.

Once an economic force, the gift of woven fabrics has today become an important custom. A proud tradition that is prevalent even in the urban parts of Bhutan.

Looms that create magic

The tools of the weaver’s trade are themselves objects of great fascination. Traditionally, fabrics were woven of a backstrap vertical loom. Today, this loom is used mainly for cotton and silk fabrics, while wool is woven on a pedel loom.

The four types of looms in use nowadays are:-

The fixed horizontal frame loom. Originally from Tibet, this type of loom is used by the people of Central and Western Bhutan to produce Setha. Interestingly, the actual operation of the loom-also the most strenuous part-is done by foot.

The fixed horizontal frame loom with a back strap. The women of Laya (N.Bhutan) use this to weave yak hair and nettle fibre into elegant, stylish designs.

The fixed vertical frame loom. A traditional loom which is used to weave cotton and silk.

The card loom. A uniquely shaped loom that is used to weave kera-the long thin waistbands with which both men and women secure their traditional robes.

The fine art of Dyeing

In Bhutan dyeing is done throughout the year. The dyes used are the red lac dye and Assam indigo. However, red lac dyeing of silk, wool and cotton is generally preceded by a dyeing process using leaves of the Zhim tree. To impart a rich yellow colour to the fabric.